Hierapolis Pamukkale Guide: Roman Theater, Plutonium & Saint Philip

Last Updated: 17 May 2026

Hierapolis is the ancient city built directly on top of the famous Pamukkale travertine terraces, where 2,500 years of human settlement has accumulated on the same hot spring site that today attracts millions of tourists. Most visitors to Pamukkale focus on the white travertine pools and overlook the spectacular ancient city that surrounds them. This is a mistake. Hierapolis is one of the most complete Greco-Roman cities in Anatolia, with a magnificent theater carved into the hillside, an enormous Roman necropolis with thousands of tombs, the underground “Plutonium” thought by ancient Greeks to be an entrance to the underworld, and the martyrium of Saint Philip, one of the original twelve apostles. The hot springs and the ancient city together form a single integrated UNESCO World Heritage Site that deserves at least a full day of attention.

In this guide I will share the spectacular Roman theater built into the hillside above the travertines, the strange and deadly Plutonium gas chamber where ancient priests claimed to commune with the gods, the apostle Philip martyrium that draws Christian pilgrims, the largest ancient necropolis in Anatolia, and how to plan a Pamukkale day that includes both the travertines and the ancient city. I will tell you how to navigate the site without exhausting yourself in the summer heat, and what features are most worth your time if you cannot see everything.

The Theater and the Heart of the Ancient City

The Roman Theater of Hierapolis is the most impressive single monument at the site, and one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in all of Turkey. Built into the steep hillside above the Pamukkale terraces, the theater has 50 rows of seats with capacity for 12,000 spectators, an elaborately decorated three-story stage building, and dramatic views down the slope to the travertines below. Standing in the central orchestra and looking up at the curving rows of stone seats with the original stage building still partly intact behind you is one of the most powerful classical antiquity experiences available in Turkey.

The Theater’s History

The original theater on this site was built in the late 2nd century BC during the Hellenistic period, when Hierapolis was a vassal state of the kings of Pergamum. The Hellenistic theater was a simpler structure than what you see today, with stone seating but without the elaborate stage decoration that the Romans later added.

Major Roman reconstruction took place under the emperor Septimius Severus around 200 AD. The Roman builders raised the height of the seating, added vaulted entrance passages, and built the elaborate three-story stage building with its sculptural decoration. The result was one of the finest theaters in the Roman East, capable of hosting dramatic performances, musical contests, gladiator combats and public ceremonies.

The theater continued in use throughout the Byzantine period, with progressive Christianization of its function and decoration. By the late Byzantine period (around 1100 AD) the theater was being used primarily for Christian religious gatherings and as a meeting place for local civic affairs. The structure was eventually abandoned after the major earthquakes of the 14th century, which damaged many of the surrounding buildings.

What You See Today

The cavea (seating area) is exceptionally well preserved. All 50 rows of seats survive in their original positions, divided into 8 sections by 7 staircases. The marble seating in the lower rows (reserved for honored guests, magistrates and priests) is decorated with carved reliefs of bearded heads, flowers and architectural motifs. The upper rows are simpler but equally well preserved.

The stage building (frons scaenae) is the most spectacular surviving feature. The three-story structure was originally faced with marble columns, decorated panels and sculptural figures. Much of the original sculptural decoration has been reassembled in place using anastylosis (the careful reconstruction technique), giving you a clear sense of the original visual impact. Marble reliefs showing scenes from the myths of Apollo (the city’s main divine patron), Dionysus and Artemis are particularly impressive.

The theater was carefully restored during the 1957-1996 Italian-Turkish excavation campaign, with many fallen blocks reassembled into their original positions. The work was careful and successful, leaving you with a theater that is essentially functional, though no actual performances are held inside the ancient structure today.

Walking the Theater

The visitor route takes you along the upper edge of the theater, then down through the original entrance passages (vomitoria) to the orchestra level. The vomitoria are particularly impressive, with the original Roman vaulted ceilings still intact and showing the engineering sophistication that allowed 12,000 people to enter and exit the theater quickly.

From the orchestra, you can walk up through the seating to any row, sitting on the original stone benches where Roman audiences sat 1,800 years ago. The acoustics are still functional. Speaking in a normal voice from the orchestra can be heard clearly throughout the seating bowl, a demonstration of Roman engineering that consistently amazes modern visitors.

The view from the upper rows looking back over the stage and out to the surrounding country is the photograph people take. The combination of the curving rows of marble seats, the partial stage building, and the distant Pamukkale travertines and the modern town beyond, all visible in a single frame, is one of the iconic images of Turkish archaeology.

The Plutonium and the Ancient Religious Mysteries

One of the strangest features at Hierapolis is the small cave called the Plutonium, named after Pluto (the Greco-Roman god of the underworld) because ancient Greeks believed it was an entrance to the world of the dead. The cave produces a continuous emission of lethal carbon dioxide gas from volcanic activity deep below the site, and the gas killed any animal that approached the opening. Ancient priests used this lethal property as evidence of supernatural power and as part of the religious mysteries practiced at the site.

The Geology and the Gas

Pamukkale sits on a major geological fault line, with hot mineral springs and volcanic gas emissions that have been continuously active for thousands of years. The hot water creates the famous travertine terraces by depositing calcium carbonate as the water cools. The volcanic gases include large quantities of carbon dioxide, which is heavier than air and accumulates in low-lying places.

The Plutonium cave is essentially a vent for these accumulated gases. Carbon dioxide flows out of the cave at concentrations that are immediately lethal to any animal that breathes the gas. Birds flying near the entrance fall dead. Small mammals brought near the opening collapse within seconds. The effect was dramatic and consistent, occurring for both ancient and modern observers in essentially the same way.

Ancient priests, however, could approach the cave without harm because the heavy gas formed a layer at ground level. By standing upright with their heads above the gas layer, the priests could appear to the public to be invulnerable to the underworld’s deadly emanations. Bringing animals (typically birds or small mammals) close to the cave entrance demonstrated the lethal power of the gas, while the priests themselves remained unharmed.

The Ancient Religious Use

The Plutonium was the center of a major mystery cult at Hierapolis, associated with the worship of Cybele (the Anatolian mother goddess) and Apollo. The cult attracted pilgrims from across the Greek and Roman world who came to witness the supernatural demonstrations and to receive prophetic messages from the priests who claimed to communicate with the underworld.

Ancient writers including Strabo (early 1st century AD) and Pliny the Elder (mid 1st century AD) described visiting the Plutonium and witnessing the lethal effects on sacrificed animals. Pliny wrote that even bulls brought to the entrance “fall dead at the mouth of the cave,” and that priests of Cybele entered the cave to receive divine inspiration, returning unharmed because of their supposed special relationship with the goddess.

The actual mechanism (carbon dioxide gas layer) was unknown to ancient observers, who interpreted the phenomenon in religious terms. The combination of demonstrable supernatural-seeming power and ancient prophetic tradition made the Plutonium one of the most important religious sites in the Roman East.

Visiting the Plutonium Today

The cave entrance is now sealed off behind a wooden barrier for safety reasons, but you can approach to within a few meters of the opening and feel the heavier-than-air gas flowing out. The smell is mildly sulfurous (from associated volcanic gases) and the temperature near the entrance is noticeably warmer than the surrounding air.

Above the cave, the ancient temple precinct contains the foundations of the temple of Apollo, the priestly buildings and various ceremonial structures associated with the cult. Most of these structures are reduced to foundations and low walls, but the layout is clear and the ritual importance of the site is unmistakable.

The Plutonium is one of the more atmospheric stops on a Hierapolis visit. Standing where ancient priests communicated with the gods, while feeling the lethal gas that they used as their tool, is a strange and memorable experience. Allow 20 to 30 minutes for the Plutonium and the surrounding sacred precinct.

The Martyrium of Saint Philip and Early Christianity at Hierapolis

Hierapolis was one of the most important early Christian sites in Anatolia, with a tradition that the apostle Philip lived, preached and was martyred here in the 1st century AD. The Martyrium of Saint Philip, on the hilltop east of the main ancient city, is a complex of 5th century Christian buildings constructed around the apostle’s tomb. Christian pilgrims have visited the site continuously since the late Roman period, and modern archaeological work has confirmed the historical authenticity of the Philip tradition.

The Apostle Philip and His Connection to Hierapolis

Philip was one of the original twelve apostles of Jesus, mentioned in the Gospel of John as one of the first followers chosen by Jesus and as the one who brought the question of feeding the 5,000 to Jesus’ attention. After the death of Jesus, according to early Christian tradition, Philip traveled extensively throughout the eastern Mediterranean preaching the new faith.

Early Christian sources from the 2nd and 3rd centuries identify Hierapolis as Philip’s primary ministry area and the location of his death. The apostle reportedly lived in Hierapolis with his daughters and his disciples for several years, attracting both believers and persecutors. The Roman authorities and the local pagan priests opposed his preaching, particularly because his teachings against animal sacrifice threatened the religious and economic system of the city.

Philip was martyred at Hierapolis around 80 AD, according to tradition. The accounts vary, with some sources saying he was crucified upside down (like Saint Peter), others saying he was hanged from his ankles. Whatever the exact form of execution, the early Christian community in Hierapolis preserved the memory of his death and gathered at his tomb for prayer and commemoration.

The Building Complex

The Martyrium of Saint Philip on the hilltop consists of several distinct buildings constructed over centuries. The earliest structure was a simple memorial chapel built around 200 AD over the apostle’s tomb. This was replaced by progressively more elaborate buildings as Christianity gained official status in the Roman Empire and the cult of saints became more prominent.

The main building visible today is a massive octagonal church from the 5th century AD, with a central domed space surrounded by eight chapels (one for each of the eight provinces from which Christian pilgrims came). The octagonal plan was deliberately symbolic, with the number 8 representing resurrection and eternal life in Christian numerical symbolism. The building was a major pilgrimage destination throughout the Byzantine period.

Adjacent to the octagonal church is the actual martyrion (martyr’s shrine) built directly over the apostle’s tomb. This smaller chapel was the focal point of the pilgrimage, with the tomb itself visible to pilgrims through a small opening in the floor. The tomb was excavated in 2011 and confirmed the presence of an undisturbed Roman period burial consistent with the Philip tradition.

Visiting the Site

The Martyrium of Saint Philip is on the eastern hilltop of Hierapolis, about 1 kilometer from the main entrance to the ancient city. The climb takes about 20 minutes on a moderately steep path. The view from the hilltop over the entire Hierapolis site and the Pamukkale travertines is spectacular, and the visit is well worth the climb.

The buildings are mostly reduced to foundations and low walls, but the layout is clear and the religious atmosphere is preserved. Christian visitors often spend time in private prayer at the tomb. Visitors of any background can appreciate the historical and architectural significance of the buildings. Bring water for the climb, especially in summer.

The path from the main city to the martyrium passes the Byzantine Gate and the late Roman city walls, which are themselves worth attention. The walls were built in the 4th century AD during a period when the previously unwalled city needed defenses against barbarian raids. Many of the stones used in the walls were recycled from earlier monuments, with carved inscriptions and decorative elements visible in the construction.

The North Necropolis and the Other Major Monuments

Beyond the theater, the Plutonium and the martyrium, Hierapolis contains many other significant monuments spread across the large site. The most extensive is the North Necropolis, which alone justifies a substantial portion of your visit.

The North Necropolis

The North Necropolis of Hierapolis is the largest ancient cemetery in Anatolia, with over 1,200 surviving tombs spanning over 800 years of use (from approximately 300 BC to 500 AD). The necropolis extends for about 2 kilometers north of the main city, along the road that led to the agricultural areas and the distant city of Tripolis.

The tomb types vary enormously, including elaborate temple-style tombs in the form of small Greek temples, sarcophagi on raised platforms, barrel-vaulted tomb houses, simple Roman cremation niches and Christian-era rock-cut burials. The variety reflects the diversity of religious and cultural traditions in the city, with Greeks, Romans, Jews and Christians all buried in the same general area.

The most prestigious tombs are along the main road, where the wealthy families competed for visual display. Many of these tombs have inscriptions identifying the deceased and their families, providing valuable historical information about the elite of the city. Some inscriptions include curses against tomb robbers, providing a sense of the ongoing concern about tomb security.

The Roman Baths

The Roman Baths of Hierapolis are the largest bath complex in the city, dating from the 2nd century AD. The complex used the hot mineral water from the Pamukkale springs as its primary heating source, with the natural 35-40 degree Celsius water feeding directly into the warm and hot bathing pools.

The bath complex was converted into a Christian basilica in the 5th century AD, with the large central halls being adapted as the nave and side aisles of the church. The combination of pagan bathing infrastructure with Christian religious function is unique and reflects the gradual Christianization of urban Roman life.

Today the bath complex houses the Hierapolis Archaeological Museum, with the original Roman bath halls used as gallery spaces. The museum collection includes sculptures, sarcophagi, inscriptions and architectural fragments from the city. Allow 60 to 90 minutes for the museum visit.

The Antique Pool and Cleopatra’s Pool

The Antique Pool, known popularly as Cleopatra’s Pool (though there is no actual historical connection to the famous Egyptian queen), is a thermal swimming pool filled with mineral water and partially containing fallen ancient columns and architectural fragments. The pool was created when an earthquake in the 7th century AD partially destroyed a Roman bath building and the resulting pool was incorporated into later use of the site.

Today the pool is operated commercially, with an entrance fee separate from the main Hierapolis site ticket (around 300 lira). Visitors can swim in the warm mineral water (35 degrees Celsius) for an hour, with the fallen columns and capitals on the bottom of the pool creating a surreal underwater scene.

The water is rich in minerals including calcium, magnesium, sulfur and bicarbonate, with claimed therapeutic properties for skin conditions, rheumatism and circulation. Whether the health claims are supported by modern science or not, the experience of swimming among ancient Roman columns is genuinely unusual and memorable.

How to Visit Hierapolis with the Pamukkale Travertines

Hierapolis is integrated with the Pamukkale travertine terraces on a single site, with one ticket allowing access to both the ancient city and the famous white terraces. Planning your day to include both is essential.

The Single Site Strategy

The Pamukkale-Hierapolis site has three main entrances. The South Gate is at the foot of the travertine terraces in Pamukkale village, accessible by car or foot. The North Gate is at the top of the hill near the necropolis, accessible by car. The Karahayit Gate is on the western side, accessible by car. The recommended strategy is to enter at one gate and exit at another to avoid backtracking.

The most efficient itinerary for a full day visit is to enter at the South Gate in the morning, walk up through the travertines (you must remove shoes for the travertines themselves), reach the top of the terraces, then explore the ancient city of Hierapolis (theater, Plutonium, martyrium, necropolis) and exit through the North Gate. Have a taxi or pre-arranged transport waiting at the North Gate to return to your car or hotel.

An alternative for less mobile visitors is to enter at the North Gate, focus on the ancient city, drive around to the South Gate for the travertines, then exit through the South Gate. This avoids the steep climb up the travertines but requires two car movements.

Timing Your Visit

The ideal full-day itinerary is to arrive at the South Gate at 08:30 (opening), spend 90 minutes walking up through the travertines, visit Cleopatra’s Pool from 10:30 to 11:30 (this is the best time, before the tour groups arrive), have lunch at one of the cafes near the pool, spend the afternoon exploring the ancient city (theater, Plutonium), and climb to the martyrium in the late afternoon (16:00 to 17:00) when the temperatures are cooler.

If you only have a half day, prioritize the travertines and the theater. These two features are the most spectacular and most photographed, and a 3 to 4 hour visit covering both gives you the essential Pamukkale-Hierapolis experience. The Plutonium and the martyrium can be skipped if necessary, though they are highly recommended for visitors interested in the religious history.

Summer visits should be planned around the heat. Temperatures can exceed 40 degrees Celsius in July and August, especially around midday. Early morning and late afternoon visits are essential. The travertines themselves provide some natural cooling from the water, but the open ancient city has very little shade.

Where to Stay in Pamukkale

The village of Pamukkale at the foot of the travertines has many small hotels in the 600 to 1,800 lira per night range. Hotel Hal-Tur, Pamukkale Tursan Hotel and Hotel Vesta are reliable mid-range options. The village is small and walkable, with restaurants and small shops along the main street.

The town of Denizli, 20 kilometers from Pamukkale, offers more upscale accommodation including the Hilton Garden Inn Denizli and the Doubletree by Hilton. Prices typically 2,000 to 4,000 lira per night. The location is less atmospheric than Pamukkale village but more comfortable.

For a unique experience, stay in Karahayit, the small village on the western side of the travertines. The red terraces here (colored by iron deposits in the water) are smaller but interesting, and the village has several small thermal hotels using the local mineral water. Hotel Lycus River and Polat Thermal Hotel are popular options.

For more on Pamukkale specifically, see my Pamukkale day trip guide. For combining Pamukkale and Aphrodisias, see my Aphrodisias guide.

How to Get to Hierapolis and Pamukkale

Pamukkale (and therefore Hierapolis) is in the Denizli province of southwestern Turkey. The site is well connected by both air and road to major Turkish cities.

From Denizli

Denizli is the major city closest to Pamukkale, with Cardak Airport receiving daily flights from Istanbul (Sabiha Gokcen and main airports), Ankara and several other Turkish cities. The airport is 65 kilometers from Pamukkale (about 50 minutes by car). Airport shuttles run to Pamukkale and Denizli central station throughout the day.

The Denizli intercity bus station has hourly minibuses to Pamukkale village, taking about 25 minutes and costing around 25 Turkish lira. The minibus drops you in the village center, from where the South Gate is a 10-minute walk uphill.

By rental car (around 800 to 1,500 lira per day in Denizli), the drive from Denizli to Pamukkale takes about 30 minutes on the modern highway. The drive is straightforward with clear signage.

From Other Major Cities

From Istanbul, the most practical approach is to fly to Denizli or Izmir airports and then drive or take a bus to Pamukkale. Direct day trips from Istanbul are exhausting (about 7 hours each way). An overnight stay in Pamukkale is strongly recommended.

From Izmir, the drive to Pamukkale takes about 3 hours. Bus connections from Izmir to Denizli are frequent and comfortable, with onward minibus connections to Pamukkale.

From Antalya, the drive is about 5 hours via Burdur and Denizli. Buses run several times daily but the journey is long.

From Bodrum, the drive is about 4 hours via Mugla. The drive is scenic but tiring.

Tickets and Practicalities

The combined Pamukkale + Hierapolis entry ticket is around 400 Turkish lira for international visitors. The ticket allows entry to the travertines, the ancient city, the necropolis and most monuments. Cleopatra’s Pool is a separate ticket (around 300 lira) purchased at the pool itself.

The site is open daily from 06:30 to 19:00 in summer, 08:00 to 17:00 in winter. The early opening hours allow you to enter the travertines before the major tour buses arrive, which is essential for good photographs and a peaceful experience.

Bring water, sunscreen, a hat and comfortable walking shoes for the ancient city sections. For the travertines, bring water shoes or sandals (you must walk barefoot on the travertines themselves, but the bottoms of the pools can be sharp). A swimsuit if you plan to use Cleopatra’s Pool. Cash for the additional pool ticket and for snacks/drinks at the on-site cafes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a Hierapolis visit take?

The full Pamukkale + Hierapolis combined visit takes 5 to 7 hours for thorough coverage. The Hierapolis ancient city section alone takes 2.5 to 3 hours if you visit the theater, Plutonium, martyrium and necropolis. A focused 90-minute visit covering just the theater and Plutonium is possible but feels rushed.

Is the climb to the Martyrium of Saint Philip difficult?

The climb is moderate, about 20 minutes on a stepped path with some loose stones. Most reasonably fit visitors can complete it without difficulty. Bring water, especially in summer. The path has no shade. The view from the hilltop and the historical significance of the site justify the climb for visitors interested in early Christian history.

Can children visit Hierapolis safely?

Yes, but with supervision. The site is large and includes some areas where you need to watch your footing (the travertines, the theater stairs, the Plutonium gas area). Children generally enjoy the theater (with its dramatic open seating), swimming in Cleopatra’s Pool, and walking through the travertines. The educational element makes Hierapolis a good family destination.

Is Cleopatra’s Pool worth the extra ticket?

For most visitors, yes. The experience of swimming in warm mineral water among fallen Roman columns is genuinely unusual and memorable. The pool is most enjoyable in the morning (10:30 to 12:00) before the tour groups arrive. In peak summer afternoons the pool can be very crowded and less enjoyable.

When is the best time to visit?

April, May, September and October offer the best balance of comfortable temperatures, calm weather and manageable crowds. Summer (June through August) is hot but the travertines and the pool provide natural cooling. Winter visits are quiet but cool, with the travertines occasionally closed due to snow or freezing temperatures.

How does Hierapolis compare to Ephesus?

Hierapolis has a unique combination of the famous travertines and substantial Greco-Roman ruins on the same site, which no other Turkish site offers. Ephesus has more spectacular and complete individual monuments (the Library of Celsus, the Great Theater) but lacks the natural wonder of the Pamukkale terraces. Many visitors prefer Hierapolis for the combined natural-historical experience. The UNESCO World Heritage listing for Hierapolis-Pamukkale provides additional context on the joint cultural-natural significance.